Six spices under the microscope

What determines whether a spice stands out in the kitchen? Flavor intensity, origin, and processing all play a role. Verstegen's picolier (herb and spice expert) Rob van Giessen selected six spices worth rediscovering: classics with character and surprising ones with potential. Discover their origins, how to recognize quality, and what you can do with them in the professional kitchen.

Picolier Rob shares origins, quality characteristics and applications.

Nutmeg and Mace

They come from the same fruit: nutmeg is the kernel, while mace is the network of orange-red veins surrounding it, also known as the seed coat. Both spices share a warm, aromatic base, but differ in flavor and application. While nutmeg is rich and spicy, mace is lighter and more floral.

Origin

From the nutmeg tree on the Indonesian island of Sangihe, near the Banda Islands.

Nutmeg

World cuisine
Commonly used in Dutch, French, and Indonesian cuisine. Also essential in American classics like pumpkin spice and Indian curries.

Recognizing quality
Good nutmeg is brownish-orange in color. The darker the powder, the greater the chance that bitter shell residue has been ground into the powder.
Choose ground nutmeg from a producer who grinds and cools it immediately, such as Verstegen, to preserve the essential oils. Or, preferably, choose whole nuts and grate them fresh – this best reveals the full, warm, and nutty aroma. An old nut smells musty and has little flavor.

Taste
Full, warm, and aromatic. Think sweet citrus notes with a musky edge. The flavor is complex: fruity and warm at first, with a subtle bitterness at the end.

Application
Pairs well with stews, game, béchamel sauce, and vegetables like cauliflower or green beans. It also makes a surprising addition to desserts, from custard to ice cream. Use sparingly and preferably freshly grated for maximum flavor.

Tip
Combine with cinnamon, cloves and ginger for a warm base in autumnal dishes.

Mace

World cuisine
Also popular in Dutch, French, and Indonesian cuisine, mace is a common ingredient in classic spice blends and is also used in fish dishes, sauces, and pastries.

Recognizing quality
Good mace is recognizable by its orange-red color and open, fleshy texture. It's flexible and has an aromatic aroma. Dry, crumbly, or grayish-brown pieces indicate age and loss of quality. As with nutmeg, freshly ground mace maximizes the flavor and aroma.

Taste
Mace is floral and fresher than nutmeg. Its flavor has light citrus and floral notes, without the earthy heaviness of nutmeg. This makes it an elegant condiment that pairs well with both savory and sweet dishes.

Application
Mace can be used whole in broths, ragouts, stews, or sous-vide vegetable dishes. Remove before
Serve. Ground, it's a subtle addition to pastries, fish dishes, or cream sauces. Dosage is key: mace is potent in small doses.

Tip
Use mace in panna cotta or ice cream for a surprisingly refined flavor. It also pairs particularly well with shellfish.
in a bisque or fish fumet.

Saffron

Deep red and decisive.

Saffron is the red-gold thread—also called stigma—that adds color, aroma, and a touch of luxury to your dish. It comes from the saffron crocus, a fragile flower that blooms for only eight days a year. Harvesting is done by hand, making saffron the most expensive spice in the world.

Origin
Primarily from the Middle East. World cuisine: Commonly used in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine, including paella, risotto, and bouillabaisse.

Recognizing quality
Good saffron is recognized by its wafer-thin, deep-red threads with a small floral stigma at the end. The quality is determined by the amount of crocin (color) and saffronol (aroma). Genuine saffron gradually releases a yellow color in hot water or wine. If it turns bright immediately, it's likely an imitation. Avoid powdered saffron, as it's often adulterated with copper spices like turmeric.

Taste
Saffron has an earthy, honeyed aroma with a dusty undertone. It's a flavor difficult to compare with other spices, but it adds a subtle, almost magical depth to the right dish.

Application
Use saffron in rice dishes, soups, sauces, or desserts. Add it to warm liquid and let it steep for optimal effect.
Think of saffron risotto, paella or a creamy panna cotta with saffron.

Tip
Saffron really comes into its own in creamy desserts.

Juniper berry

Fragrant berry with a fresh, resinous note.

Juniper berries are the fragrant bulbs that add depth to game dishes. They're not actually berries, but rather the catkin of the juniper bush.
This spice comes surprisingly close to home: right from Europe.

Origin
Juniper berries grow in Northern Europe and the Alps, among other places. However, the best quality comes from Macedonia, where Verstegen sources its juniper berries.

World cuisine
Particularly popular in Northern and Central European cuisines, they are often used in stews, with game, and in fermented products like sauerkraut.

Recognizing quality
Choose juniper berries that are still whole and firm, with a deep blue-black color. They should have a slight sheen and release an intense aroma when crushed.
Older berries are often dull and tasteless.

Taste
Fresh and resinous with notes of pine, citrus, and a slight bitterness. Typical for game dishes, but also surprisingly aromatic in sweet-and-sour combinations.

Application
Lightly crush the berries before adding them to stews or marinades. Perfect with game, pork, sauerkraut, and of course, gin and tonics.

Tip
Combine with bay leaf, thyme, and cloves for a classic European stew base. Also delicious in syrup with apple or pear.

The difference between herbs and spices?

Herbs are green plants like chives, parsley, and dill. Most herbs grow above the equator. Spices are always parts of plants: fruits, flowers, roots, and, in the case of cinnamon, the bark of the tree. They are always dried and usually grow around or below the equator.

Cinnamon

Warm, sweet and full of fragrance.

Cinnamon is the dried inner bark of the cinnamon tree and an essential spice in both sweet and savory dishes. Its flavor ranges from subtle and floral to strong and spicy, depending on the variety. Ceylon and Cassia are the most common varieties, each with its own aroma and uses.

Origin
The origin of Ceylon cinnamon lies in Sri Lanka, that of Cassia in Indonesia.

World cuisine
Cinnamon is popular worldwide: from Indian curries to Swedish cinnamon rolls and Mexican chocolate drinks.

Recognizing quality
The quality of cinnamon is recognized by its scent, color, texture, and origin. Ceylon cinnamon has fine, thin layers that curl into an elegant, light-brown stick. Cassia cinnamon is more robust, thicker, and darker in color. The scent is decisive: good cinnamon smells full, warm, and slightly sweet. A musty, faint scent indicates age or lower quality. The best quality comes from the thickest bark. Thinner bark indicates younger branches and therefore fewer essential oils. Freshness is essential for ground cinnamon. Ground cinnamon quickly loses its essential oils—and thus its scent and flavor—especially if stored in a warm place for a long time. When purchasing, also pay attention to the origin, variety designation, and processing method.

Taste
Warm, sweet, and spicy with a hint of citrus. Cassia is more spicy and sharp; Ceylon is more subtle and softer. Both add rich depth to dishes.

Application
Essential in pastries, stews, and hot drinks. Add to curry pastes, compotes, or steep a pod in tea or sauce.

Tip
Cinnamon works surprisingly well with savory flavors.

Sumac

Like lemon, but with an undertone.

Sumac is perhaps the most underrated condiment from the Middle East. This deep red spice adds a fresh, lemony kick to dishes without the acidity of vinegar or lemon juice.

Origin
Mostly from Turkey and the Middle East. World cuisine: Often used in Lebanese, Turkish, and Persian cuisine – for example, on salads, kebabs, or rice.

Recognizing quality
Good sumac is a deep purple-red, coarsely ground, and slightly moistened by the oil. Avoid pale or dusty varieties. In its pure form, it contains no added salt.

Taste
Fresh and sour with an earthy note and a hint of bitterness. Think lemon with a spicy undertone. The tannins present provide the slightly bitter taste. Sumac adds
Acidity without sharpness. Ideal for balance.

Application
Sprinkle over salads, grilled meats, or vegetables. Also delicious as a finishing touch in hummus or yogurt. Add at the end to preserve the flavor and color.

Tip
Mix with olive oil and onion as a fresh marinade or as a topping for flatbread or labneh.