The truth about game

7 misconceptions according to SVH Master Chef Jonathan Zandbergen

“For me, game is pure gold. It is the best thing we have.” As a candidate for Bocuse d'Or Netherlands and owner of Wild Atelier, Jonathan Zandbergen is committed to putting the Netherlands on the map as a culinary destination. “Because that is what we are. We have so much to tell and to offer. And what better way to do that than with game? If you are a top chef or butcher, you want to work with the best products. So the choice for game is an easy one, right?” Just as easily, Jonathan debunks seven persistent misconceptions.

1. Game is meat

“Game stands for all products from the wild. So that includes fish and plants. Everything that has not been cultivated and has lived or grown in freedom in nature is game. Of course, meat plays a major role in the autumn, but there is more. At Wild Atelier, at least half of what I serve is fish. Guests often don't expect that. That leads to great conversations. To me, ‘local’ means the Netherlands, and that includes the North Sea, the Wadden Sea, and the Oosterschelde.”

2. Game belongs to the autumn

“The game season lasts twelve months. In the autumn, the most game meat is available, that’s true. That has to do with, among other things, the animals’ breeding seasons. But there is plenty available outside of autumn, too. Roe deer, for example, is available from May onwards. Wood pigeon and wild goose are available year-round. And at times when less game meat is available, you can choose wild fish, shellfish, and crustaceans.”

3. Game has a very strong taste

“The taste depends on the type of game and the preparation. The tenderloin, for example, is the most refined steak in the world. The texture is very fine and if you age it properly, it gains a soft, subtle flavor with a lot of depth. Game is often lean meat and therefore can handle less than other meat. If you overcook it, it dries out quickly and that unwanted liver taste can develop. Good aging and preparation are therefore incredibly important for the final taste.”

4. Sustainability and meat do not go together

“It might not sound like a logical combination, but as far as I am concerned, it certainly is. In the Netherlands, areas are managed to keep nature in balance. In addition, we have ‘nuisance game’ on farmland, for which game managers are deployed. I find it incredibly sustainable to process animals that become available through game management, instead of animals from the industry. Build a good relationship with your suppliers. Then you know where an animal comes from, you have a transparent chain, and you have a great story to tell at the table or at the counter.”

5. Game is expensive

“Game is a luxury product and it requires professional expertise to work with it. But if you do it right, you can utilize the entire animal. This makes you work more sustainably and creatively. Take a venison rack, for example. You can get 8 steaks out of it. But I can also combine 32 slices of venison fillet with a piece of venison steak from the leg and stew meat from the shoulder. Then, instead of 8, you suddenly make 32 main courses or meals. By also using the less common parts, you offer something special with a luxurious feel at a more accessible price.”

6. Game is traditional

“The older generation often knows game from traditional recipes, while the younger generation has grown up less with those flavors. But game doesn’t have to be traditional at all. With herbs and spices, you can create surprising flavors. Each type of game requires a different combination. That is what makes it so interesting to play with. Include the younger generation in this and challenge them. Share your knowledge and the techniques that come with it. Game is beautiful material to practice with.”

7. Game is inaccessible

“Game is often associated with fine dining, while it is actually also very suitable for giving familiar dishes and meals a twist. Think of rendang, satay, or pasta bolognese, but based on game. This way, you sell something people know and which works commercially, while at the same time offering something unique.”