The truth about game
7 misconceptions according to SVH Master Chef Jonathan Zandbergen
“For me, game is simply gold. It is the best we have.” As a candidate for Bocuse d'Or Netherlands and owner of Wild Atelier, Jonathan Zandbergen is committed to putting the Netherlands on the map as a culinary destination. “Because that is what we are. We have so much to tell and offer. And how could that be better than with game? If you are a top chef or butcher, you want to work with the best products. Then the choice of game is an easy one, right?” Jonathan debunks seven persistent misconceptions just as easily.
1. Game is meat
“Game encompasses all products from the wild. So do fish and plants. Everything that is not cultivated and has lived or grown freely in nature is game. Of course, meat plays a major role in autumn, but there is more. At Wild Atelier, at least half of what I serve is fish. Guests often do not expect that. That is how great conversations arise. For me, locality means the Netherlands, and that includes the North Sea, the Wadden Sea and the Oosterschelde.”
2. Game belongs to autumn
“The game season lasts twelve months. It is true that the most game meat is available in autumn. This is partly due to the breeding seasons of animals. But there is plenty outside of autumn too. For example, roe deer is available from May. Wood pigeon and wild goose are available all year round. And at times when less game meat is available, you can choose wild fish, crustaceans and shellfish.”
3. Game has a very strong taste
“The taste depends on the type of game and the preparation. The haunch of venison, for example, is the most refined steak in the world. The texture is very fine and if you age it properly, it develops a soft, subtle taste with a lot of depth. Game is often lean meat and can therefore have less flavour than other meat. If you cook it too long, it dries out quickly and that unwanted liver taste can develop. Good aging and preparation are therefore extremely important for the final taste.”
4. Sustainability and meat do not go together
“It may not sound like a logical combination, but to me it certainly is. In the Netherlands, areas are managed to keep nature in balance. We also have nuisance game on farmers' fields, for which game managers are employed. I think it is extremely sustainable to use animals that become available through game management, instead of animals from the industrial sector. Build a good relationship with your suppliers. Then you know where an animal comes from, you have a transparent chain and a great story to tell at the table or at the counter.”
5. Game is expensive
“Game is a luxury product and it takes expertise to work with it. But if you do it properly, you can make full use of the entire animal. This makes you work more sustainably and creatively. Take a roe deer saddle, for example. You can get 8 steaks from it. But I can also combine 32 slices of roe fillet with a piece of roe steak from the haunch and braised meat from the shoulder. Then you suddenly make 32 main courses or meals instead of 8. By also using the less popular cuts, you offer something special with a luxurious appearance at a more affordable price.”
6. Game is traditional
“The older generation often knows game from traditional recipes, while the younger generation has grown up with fewer of those flavours. But game does not have to be traditional at all. With herbs and spices you can create surprising flavours. Each type of game requires a different combination. That is what makes it so interesting to play around with. Take the younger generation with you and challenge them. Share your knowledge and the techniques involved. Game is wonderful material to practise with.”
7. Game is intimidating
“Game is often associated with fine dining, while it is also very suitable for giving familiar dishes and meals a twist. Think of rendang, satay or pasta bolognese, but made with game. This way you sell something people know and that works commercially, while at the same time offering something unique.”