Cooking for the public or fine dining?

A sign still adorns the front door of De Heerenkeet in Kerkwerve, Zeeland, reading "Brasserie | Fine Dining ." It reflects both the desire and the dilemma. Owners Marion and Richard Snijder prefer to cater to the many tourists' demand for simply good, tasty, and quick food. Meanwhile, son Troy Snijder (24) prefers to trade satay and sole for a gastronomic multi-course menu showcasing the finest the sea has to offer. Dividing the restaurant proved impractical, so the young chef and future owner is looking for another solution. Time for a good conversation with his former mentor, Bart de Bree (55), owner and chef at Hostellerie Schuddebeurs, five kilometers away.

Energy and annoyance

Bart: "I still remember well when Troy started working in my kitchen six years ago. It was only the second time he'd worked outside his parents' kitchen. He was insecure, but also determined to take De Heerenkeet to a higher culinary level. In that respect, we might not be a perfect match as a student and a mentor. To his great annoyance, I enjoy a cup of onion soup and tournedos just as much as his scallops, maybe even more. I don't need things to be so complicated. But Troy has a clear vision of the future, and that's what makes him special. Not every student is so passionate, so I cherish our warm relationship."

Compromise and complex

Troy: “In a few years, my girlfriend Jennifer and I hope to take over the business from my parents. That's a challenge in itself, but our desire to turn it into a fine dining restaurant doesn't make it any easier. The current guests are mostly elderly tourists. They cycle past, want some sole, and then move on. I love the gastronomy: surprising guests with a high level of service and beautiful, complex flavors. Right now, we're in a transitional phase. We tried dividing the restaurant in two, but that didn't work. That's why the menu now offers a mix of popular dishes and fine dining options. I also hope to attract a new target audience and gradually grow towards the higher end.”

Inspiration

Bart: “My message to trainee chefs is twofold: work with fresh and local ingredients and ensure your concept is sustainable. You have to generate income. In this remote location, that's an extra challenge: we rely on the summer months for our success. That means operating at full capacity. I cook quite classically myself. Call it old-fashioned, but I delight my customers with pâté, lobster, and cod. They're not interested in adventurous dishes and flavors. Ultimately, you have to cook to your guests' tastes to be successful at the end of the year. I can imagine that what Troy wants doesn't resonate with his customers right now. But above all, he should do what he loves. That's the most important lesson: work with joy. In his case, that's a matter of perseverance. It's an investment in the future. It wouldn't be my choice, but he's choosing his own happiness.”

Concept

Troy: “Bart is a man of knowledge. When I was looking for an internship, many people said: go to the Hostellerie if you want to learn the basics. Pure cooking. I'm still grateful to him for that. At the same time, he's from the same generation as my parents. He's always busy with as many tables as possible in a day. In that respect, I'd prefer a very small business. Then I can do what I want without being dependent on staff. But I'm not going to miss this wonderful place and opportunity. Luckily, I'm still young. I understand how the younger generation of employees thinks and what they need. Sometimes it's help with a school assignment, other times it's time for a joke or a bit of fun. Whatever you think of young people: they certainly make the kitchen more fun.”

Balance

Bart: “Young people have different ambitions. They value work-life balance. As an employer, you have to listen carefully to that. Working with young people keeps you young. I love nothing more than training young people. A few graduated last week. If you don't keep up with the times, you won't have any young people working for you anymore. It's that simple. It's a balance between having fun and pushing back. And engaging in conversation—there's a great need for that. Sometimes sitting aside and offering a listening ear. Young people are less mentally resilient than my generation. The pressure is high, the attention span is short.”

Handcuffs

Troy: "I sometimes find the attitude of students who don't know what they want difficult. They come in here and say, 'I'm doing culinary school, but I'm not sure if I'll continue.' And then I have to train them. It's like flogging a dead horse, while they won't do anything with it in the future. I sometimes miss the shared passion for the profession. That they put as much energy into it as I did back then."

Right to exist

Bart: “I sometimes feel sorry for the current students. Some of them are really working themselves to the bone. If they come here to work and end up becoming a construction worker or a truck driver, I have no problem with that. My generation raised them, so I also feel responsible for supporting them. As long as they do their work well, they're very welcome here. And I, in turn, can learn from them: don't forget to live in the present, because there might not be a future. They want to get the most out of life, and I admire that. Meanwhile, the chefs who are now pursuing careers are falling like flies, blinded by their lofty ambitions. They end up realizing that in ten years they've aged thirty years and still haven't made it. Whatever Troy chooses, it has to be viable. Whether it's fine dining or a tourist destination. You don't have to be the best or the cheapest: be the healthiest. In your business operations and your work ethic.”