Five spices highlighted by picolier Peter
(Re)cognize your classics
What do white pepper, cumin, paprika, cloves, and allspice have in common? They're spices found in almost every kitchen. But how do you make a difference with these seasonings? Verstegen's spice and herb expert (picolier) Peter Dumont discusses the flavor, quality, and uses of his favorite classics.
White pepper, exciting and sharper than black pepper
White, black, and green pepper all come from the same plant. White pepper comes from the berries that hang on the plant the longest. After picking, the berries are placed in burlap sacks and soaked in water for twelve to fifteen days to ferment. The skin is torn off by the burlap sack. Finally, the white remains of the berries are dried, which gives white pepper its distinctive flavor.
The Indonesian island of Bangka is the origin of this pepper, the quality of which depends heavily on the fermentation process: true white pepper smells of straw, stable or rabbit hutch, a smell that is missing from machine-peeled black pepper.
White pepper has a warm, full flavour and is spicier than black pepper – you taste the spice first, then the burning sensation.
Its light color makes it ideal for white cream soups or bread, and adding it at the end releases its aroma beautifully. It also pairs perfectly with other fermented ingredients and white fish, emphasizing their delicate flavor.
Use different grinding coarsenesses for surprising flavor dimensions and a crunchy bite in your dishes.
Paprika, color determines the quality
Peppers resemble chili peppers, but are larger: about 12 to 15 centimeters long. Peppers are annual plants. This means farmers and gardeners must sow them again every year to ensure a fresh harvest.
Bell pepper plants, which belong to the Capsicum annuum species, produces fruits that can grow to 12 to 15 centimeters long. These annual plants must be re-sown each year for a new harvest. They thrive in warm, dry climates, such as those in China, which is responsible for about 80% of global pepper production. Other major producers include Peru, South Africa, Malawi, Zimbabwe and Spain.
The quality of paprika powder is measured by its ASTA value, which indicates the depth of its red color; a high ASTA value indicates a more intense color and flavor.
Paprika has a sweet, spicy and sometimes slightly bitter taste. It is a versatile spice that is excellent in Mexican and Spanish dishes, and pairs well with zucchini, poultry, fish and shellfish.
A handy tip is to briefly heat the paprika powder in a little butter or oil over low heat before adding it to dishes such as soups, sauces or stews. This heating helps to release the flavors better and reduces any bitterness that may be present.
Clove, Sharp and aromatic with a tingling mouthfeel
Cloves grow on a tree that can reach a height of ten to twelve meters. You can harvest them from this tree for six years. For one kilogram of ground cloves, you need a whopping 12,000 flower buds.
Cloves, originating from the Syzygium aromaticum tree, grows in tropical areas such as Indonesia and Madagascar. These evergreen trees can grow up to 12 metres tall and produce the dried, still-closed flower buds we know as cloves.
The tips of the cloves, with a closed orange-brown bulb, contain the most flavor and can be recognized by their greasy feel when you pinch them between your fingers. Verstegen chooses to use only ground balls to avoid an aggressively bitter taste.
Cloves have a warm, spicy flavor with a sharp, slightly numbing sensation in the mouth.
The scent is intensely aromatic, with a warm, characteristic air. This spice is particularly good in stews, meats, winter dishes and sweet products such as speculaas. In addition, it goes well with citrus fruits or apple, which gives a surprising effect.
A handy tip is to first warm cloves briefly over low heat in a little butter or oil before adding them to dishes. The heating releases all the flavors and largely removes any bitterness.
Allspice, For a mysterious touch
Allspice originated in Jamaica. There, the berries grow on trees that can reach a height of 15 meters. Allspice berries are picked green and unripe and then dried. Allowing them to ripen will cause them to lose their flavor.
Allspice, also called Jamaican pepper or allspice, is a spice from the allspice tree (Pimenta dioica), which grows mainly in Jamaica, Cuba, Mexico and other parts of the Caribbean. The best quality allspice comes from Jamaica. The berries are picked unripe and dried, which gives them a beautiful orange-brown color and a shiny appearance. When the berry is crushed or lightly tapped, a small amount of oil is released, which indicates its freshness and quality.
The flavor of allspice is a unique combination of black pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and cinnamon, making it a mysterious and versatile spice. Allspice is often used in stews, gingerbread and other dishes. It combines well with ingredients such as beetroot, beans, squid and chocolate specialties such as mousse.
A surprising combination is the use of allspice in citrus dishes, such as orange bavarois or a citrus dressing, for a rich and full flavour.
Cumin, a characterful spice with a crunchy bite
One spice, two completely different flavors. In Eastern and Indonesian cuisine, ground cumin is also called djinten. Cumin is a plant with long
Thin stalks of about 30 centimeters with small flowers. The oval, ribbed seeds are light brown or gray. Cumin is sometimes confused with caraway, but that is a different spice. They belong to the same family, but caraway is spicier and has a different shape.
Cumin often comes from India and sometimes from Turkey, and its quality lies in its fragrant essential oils. For this reason, Verstegen grinds almost all of its spices themselves, refrigerated to preserve those oils as much as possible. Ground cumin should be light gray and not too dull, and should be slightly oily when crushed. Raw cumin (as in cumin cheese) has a harsh, sharp flavor, but when roasted, as is often the case in Asian and Middle Eastern cuisine, the flavor softens.
It's impressive how one spice can have two completely different flavors. It's perfect for Middle Eastern, Asian, Turkish, and Greek dishes and pairs particularly well with cabbage, carrots, pears, and olives.
The taste has a milky sharpness with some bitterness and a hint of mint.
Recommended: toast the cumin first and add both roasted and unroasted seeds for extra depth in your dish.


